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Jul 20, 2021 · About the Look. T. he Tears dress was part of Elsa Schiaparelli’s Spring 1938 “Circus” Collection, and is considered to be one of her most famous designs. Although rather simple in shape, the garment exhibits elements of Surrealism that would come to define Schiaparelli’s work during this decade.
The ‘Tear’ dress, also from the Summer 1938 collection, takes the form of an elegant bias-cut evening gown which is transformed with a trompe l’oeil print of rips and tears, mimicking...
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- Incipit
- London Years
- Fashion Career
- Turning Point
- Famous Collaborations
- The Shocking Pink!
- Circus Collection
- Insect Collection
- Why Paint Your nails?
- The Eyes Are The Mirror of The Soul
She opened her eyes for the first time on September 10th, 1890 in the capital of Italy, Rome. Her parents gave her the name Elsa. When she was young, she studied philosophy at the University of Rome and wrote poems in her free time (the contents of which shocked her conservative family). Since she came from an aristocratic family, Schiaparelli led ...
During her stay in London, she spent most of her free time visiting various museums, attending lectures, and there she got in touch with spiritualism, theosophy, and oriental philosophies. In 1914, she attended a lecture given by Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor. Schiaparelli fell in love and married him against her parents’ wishes and they moved t...
In 1922, Schiaparelli left New York and moved back to Paris where she assisted Man Ray with his Dada magazine Société Anonymeand met the famous couturier and one of the fathers of modern fashion Paul Poiret who influenced her future design and fashion career. With the encouragement of Poiret, she started her own business, but in 1926 her house clos...
After her initial failure, the year 1927 was a turning point in Schiaparelli’s career. She launched a new collection of knitwear using a special double-layered stitch and sweaters with Surrealist trompe l’oeil images. In the same year, she also appeared in Vogue. However, her first iconic piece, a faux-bow sweater, was the item that helped launch h...
Salvador Dalì
After the Time’s recognition, she began an active collaboration with the Spanish Surrealist painter Salvador Dalì. In 1935, they designed a perfume together shaped like a telephone dial, an actual telephone with a fake lobster on it, and in 1937, the famous Shoe hat, which was worn by Dalì’s wife, Gala. The inspiration for the shoe hat came from a photograph of Dalì with his wife’s slipper on his head. Thanks to Dalì’s participation in her designs, many famous actresses and important female f...
Jean Cocteau
In 1937, in collaboration with French avant-garde poet Jean Cocteau, Schiaparelli designed clothing masterpieces such as an evening coat featuring two trompe l’oeil faces and roses, a trademark of her style. Collaborations with famous artists such as Dali and Cocteau generated some of Schiaparelli’s most renowned pieces. In the second picture, we can see two faces lining together and creating a vase.
Alberto Giacometti
Schiaparelli was also known for her use of unusual buttons, which often resembled candlesticks, playing cards, ships, crowns, mirrors, or even crickets. In 1938 and 1939, she collaborated with the famous Italian sculptor Alberto Giacometti to create bronze buttons featuring sirens.
In the same year, Schiaparelli launched her perfume called ‘Shocking’ along with her signature color as many fashion designers or artistsdid and do to this day – the shocking pink– the color she described in her world as:
Schiaparelli’s pre-war collections, from 1938 to 1941, are dedicated to the circus,Commedia dell’arte, and fruit. The one collection that I found particularly interesting is her 1938 Circus Collection, where customized buttons, detailed embroidery, and prints were developed especially for the collection. Schiaparelli commissioned many custom pendan...
It was still in the mid-century when Schiaparelli launched another of her collections focused on a particular animal kingdom: insects. Yes, exactly, those little creatures which usually appear on our clothing during the summer, something so natural to be part of Schiaparelli’s creative expression.
With Schiaparelli’s designs, many of her gloves are incredibly memorable and often transcend our idea of what a glove can be. She produced suede gloves in both black and white, with red snakeskin fingernails to replicate human hands. These playful gloves were created around the same time Picasso painted hands to look like gloves for a Man Ray photo...
Schiaparelli was constantly playing games with and teasing her viewers. Mirrors on this suit from 1938-39 are positioned strategically and symbolize a man’s confrontation with himself. Anyone who puts his view on the bust of the woman wearing this coat is confronted by his own image. With this design, Schiaparelli recognized and critiqued the way i...
Evening dress and head veil, "Tears", Schiaparelli, Elsa, February 1938 for Circus Collection, summer 1938. Fabric designed by Salvador Dali. Long sheath dress in pale blue viscose rayon and silk blend marocain, printed with pink and magenta rips and tears. Two-pointed train.
- Evening dress
This dress was part of Schiaparelli's famous 'Circus Collection' of 1938. It was a riotous, swaggering fashion show that attracted a great deal of publicity. Clothes were decorated with...
1938–39 Schiaparelli suit with large buttons sculpted by Alberto Giacometti. Schiaparelli is one of the designers credited with offering the first clothes with visible zippers in 1930. Rather than being concealed, zippers became a key element of Schiaparelli's designs, visibly fastening necklines and running down sleeves and skirts.
Produced in 1938 on the cusp of a world in ames, it’s a hip-clutching riot of a mourning dress in creamy blue crepe (now faded with time to a milk white) ayed with carnal pink trompe l’oeil print rips. The look is finished with a thigh-length veil replete with matching appliqué tears and frothy labial gloves rufflee-gashed from dorsal to elbow.
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