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Food.comOne of the nice things about having been on this earth for a extended period of time is that you get to experience many things. Some good, some bad. Some things that you remember and many things that you forget. Once in a while some thing, experience or event comes along that stays with you and provides many nice memories. One such thing for me was a coney dog. Not just any coney dog, mind you. But one that stands out — nonpareil. The ultimate coney dog. A poor man’s gastronomical delight. One that shall never come this way again. For it just wasn’t the taste of that coney dog among coney dogs: it was the aura of a bygone era. Not only did the sauce-covered wiener satisfy your appetite, but the smells, sounds and sights of the surroundings made the consumption of this king of coney dogs an event to the looked forward to, cherished and remembered for years to come. In the old days in Canton, Ohio, there was an indoor version of a farmer’s market called the Arcade Market in downtown Canton where one could get the freshest produce, meat cut to order on the spot, actually homemade items for your home and, of course, breakfast and lunch. Homer E. Dickes (Dick), a spry wisp of a man who seemed old even when I first met him as a 5-year-old kid, owned two eating venues within the old arcade. One was a sit-down counter that served lunch and breakfast. You could get that day’s version of fast food there, eggs made to order, various sandwiches, sodas and shakes, but there was one thing you couldn’t get there: that was a coney dog. For that you had to amble over toward the other side of the market, elbow your way up to a counter where Mr. Dickes himself served up coney dogs par excellence at Dick’s Coney Stand. During the rush at lunchtime you sometimes had to stand five deep and hope you got served in time to get back to work. Lunch, at least in my working years, consisted of two coney dogs washed down by an ice cold root beer. Mr. Dickes would take your order, grab his tongs and deftly fish the required number of wieners from a pot where they had been simmering since early morning. He would then take a bun or buns from a steam warmer and with a quick flick of the wrist using a long soda spoon put the perfect amount of sauce on your dog. An assistant would bring your root beer and take your money while Mr. Dickes methodically waited on the next customer. In the 30 or 40 years that I frequented Dick’s Coney Stand I don’t think I ever heard Mr. Dickes saying anything more that “What can I get you?”. He was much too busy for chit-chat and I was much too eager to consume my prize dogs to want to converse with him anyhow. Those days are long gone now, but the memories linger on. The Arcade Market was slowly pushed aside by the newly arrived aseptic and extremely mundane super markets. Dickes Coney Stand held its own against the fast food restaurants that started to populate downtown Canton, but even the popularity of his coneys couldn’t sustain the Arcade Market and keep it open. The Arcade Market finally lost its battle to serve the citizens of Canton and with its closing Dick’s Coney Stand served its last coney dog some time during the '80s. After its closing, I, along with others, would search in vain for a coney that was comparable to Mr. Dickes’. At times I would come across one that was reasonably good but the ambiance — the sights, sounds and smells of the old Arcade Market — could not be replicated from that earlier time. For years I had heard rumors that someone had the actual recipe for Mr. Dickes’ coney sauce. I was eventually given a copy of said recipe by a friend and eagerly set about making it in my home. What I was given was a pretty standard recipe for coney sauce that didn’t seem to be anything special and indeed my first few attempts at making the coney sauce didn’t produce the hoped for results. It took quite a few tries before I discovered that the secret to a good coney sauce wasn’t in the ingredients but it was in the preparation. Like all things of import, the effort put into creating something — whether it be a food item, a material object, or even a work of art — directly impacts the final result. You can use the finest ingredients, building materials or artist paints, but if individual effort is lacking, the finished item will leave something to be desired. A quick search of the Internet revealed a couple recipes that were attributed to Mr. Dickes. The one that I offer here is one that has been circulated for years by word of mouth and is popularly thought to be the original recipe from Dick’s Coney Sauce. For many years now I have served this sauce to friends and family and it is now known in my somewhat limited circle as Ken’s Famous Coney Sauce. I have freely given out the recipe but invariably I get feedback from others that they just can’t make it the same way as I do. That is probably because of the required amount of effort that it takes to make a truly great coney sauce. It takes a couple hours of intense motivated effort to make the sauce come out right. An effort that most won’t put forth for a lowly wiener.Food52Sometimes a sandwich is just a sandwich -- simple fillings slapped on bread and eaten in a hurry. But sometimes a sandwich is a meal much greater than the sum of it's parts. Many memorable sandwiches rely on a combination of ingredients that have been elevated to iconic like a PB&J or a pastrami on rye. Some take a maximalist approach, stuffing a whole meal between slices of bread. Think of the classic Thanksgiving dinner leftover sandwich, or Primanti Brothers' sandwiches stacked high with layers of coleslaw and fries. (Pittsburghers, you know what I mean!) This sandwich is an homage to both approaches... and the cross-cultural history of sushi. The journey sushi has taken from humble street food to art form to the Philadelphia roll you might pick up in a grocery store is a complicated one with influences from ancient China, Japan, Korea, and the many talented chefs honing their craft and adapting to local ingredients and palettes. Sushi, while rooted in tradition, is continuously evolving. Story has it that California rolls and spicy tuna rolls were created to appeal to North American palates and ingredient availability in the late 70s and early 80s, while bagels with lox & cream cheese inspired Madame Saito to create the Philly roll. With a nod to the delicious melding of foods and flavors that helped sushi gain popularity in the US, this sandwich includes a whole lunchbox worth of flavors on one bagel. As with a well-composed bento box, I aimed to include a variety of colors, flavors and textures; carbs, protein and veggies using ingredients as at home on a bagel as in a box of sushi. It starts with a toasted sesame bagel. Spicy Smoked Salmon Schmear is a nod to spicy tuna rolls. I used the ratio of sriracha to mayo from Tim Anderson’s Spicy Tuna Roll recipe in JapanEasy. Early sushi was made with cured fish more often than raw, so using cold-smoked salmon or lox seemed as appropriate as it is delicious in this spread. I included a rolled egg omelette for something similar to tamagoyaki -- a sushi and bento favorite. Lox and eggs also happen to be wonderful together. If you’d like something more classic than my freehand variation, check out Namiko Chen’s recipes on Just One Cookbook. The Cucumber Salad is reminiscent of both deli pickles and seaweed salad. It’s a variation of a dead-simple salad that I make — just vegetables sprinkled with vinegar and seasonings. The result is a refreshing foil for the heaviness of the salmon schmear and eggs. This sandwich is equally delightful with the fillings carefully composed on the bagel (like a bento box!) as they are layered between bagel halves. Most, if not all of the ingredients can be found at a well-stocked grocery store. But please, for the love of carbs, get yourself a really good bagel! We like Yeasty Boys or Wexler's in LA for bagels that make us East Coast transplants feel like we're back in NYC. I hope you enjoy this sandwich as much as I do!Food.comThis is delicious as a dessert or a make ahead breakfast or brunch item. The pudding can easily sit overnight in the refrigerator before baking and tastes good cold too. I use any leftovers from my Oatmeal Molasses Bread for this recipe, but as long as the bread is not sliced sandwich bread, most breads will work. The dairy can be done in a variety of ways, depending on what you have on hand. I have even made this with 1% and it turns out fine, but not as creamy.