Royal Pavilion
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Brighton ( / ˈbraɪtən / BRY-tən) is a seaside resort and one of the two main areas of the city of Brighton and Hove in the county of East Sussex, England. It is located 47 miles (76 km) south of London. [1] Archaeological evidence of settlement in the area dates back to the Bronze Age, Roman and Anglo-Saxon periods.
- Hike around Devil’s Dyke. A timeless beauty spot on the sprawling South Downs. Why go? Just a few miles out of town, the largest ’dry valley’ in the UK makes the perfect location for a dog walk or simply an aimless ramble as the sun sets.
- Explore Brighton Palace Pier. Brighton’s Grade-II listed pleasure pier with fairground rides, bars and restaurants stretching out into the sea.
- Wander through The Lanes. Brighton’s arty district packed with independent shops, restaurants and traditional pubs. Why go? Much of Brighton oozes character and cool, but The Lanes are definitely leading the charge.
- Get to know Brighton’s queer history on an LGBTQ+ walking tour. Discover queer landmarks and history in, arguably the LGBTQ+ capital of the UK.
Explore the Victorian history and modern-day delights of Brighton Palace Pier, search the boho boutiques of its quaint shopping street, The Lanes, or experience a bird’s eye perspective of the coastline from 450ft above the ground, on Brighton i360. Dig into freshly cooked fish and chips on the sea front, or get back to nature amongst the ...
- Overview
- What to see & do in Brighton
- Best Brighton hotels
- Where to go out in Brighton
- Where to shop in Brighton
- Where to eat in Brighton
Queen of pleasure parlours and bastion of beach raves, Britain’s most progressive seaside resort combines coastal laissez-faire with a commitment to creativity and sustainability.
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Britain’s original destination for a dirty weekend, Brighton has had a reputation for licentiousness since the Prince Regent (later King George IV) started bringing his mistress Maria Fitzherbert here in the late 18th century. The construction of his coastal party pad, Brighton Pavilion, sealed the deal — slowly transforming the sleepy fishing village of Brighthelmston into a fashionable destination for the Regency elite, as well as setting a deliriously high standard for subsequent society pleasure dens.
Cut to 2023 and the city has cleaned up its act. It claims the UK’s only Green Party MP and its highest density of vegan restaurants, according to 2022 research by chefspencil.com. To sanitise the city too thoroughly, however, would be to rob it of its charm. This is a place synonymous with Graham Greene’s underworld novel Brighton Rock and, latterly, best known for bonkers beachfront raves and outrageous drag acts. An exemplar of the counterculture, it prides itself on openness and inclusivity — its wordplay nickname ‘B-right-on’ infinitely more apt than the slightly sneering ‘London-on-Sea’.
Though a fraction of the capital’s size — only qualifying for its city status when bundled together with neighbouring Hove in 2001 — Brighton brims with big energy. “It’s the beating heart of the south coast,” says Michael Aurel, manager of one of its hottest bars, the Plotting Parlour. “And absolutely everyone is welcome here.”
Much of Brighton’s appeal is along its extensive coastline — walk any section of the promenade between Hove Lagoon and Brighton Marina and you’ll pass grand seafront hotels and kitsch candy floss stalls, rollerbladers with rainbow hair and hen parties wearing kiss-me-quick hats. Nearby is The Lanes and its labyrinth of alleyways, many made using a building material called bungaroosh. Here, flint, pebbles and sand are set within the walls, the influence of the sea seeping even into streets set far back from the water.
The Lanes & North Laine: These adjacent areas are made for ambling. Traditionally the city’s jewellery district, the narrow and maze-like Lanes are still chock-full of gem-laden shops, plus an armoury shop, painted brilliant guards-red and stocked with samurai swords. North Laine, an umbrella term for several roads including Bond St and Kensington Gardens, has an almost carnival-like atmosphere at weekends, with some boulevards accommodating cafes’ pavement tables as well as various vintage and independent stores.
Royal Pavilion: Queen Victoria called her predecessor King George IV’s maximalist retreat ‘strange’ — but she must be the only visitor it’s ever failed to impress. Brighton’s Versailles, the Pavilion’s decadent design is heavily inspired by different parts of Asia — the outside is like a mini-version of India’s Taj Mahal, while the interior is a dazzling combination of gilded dragons, celestial carpets and hand-painted Chinese wallpaper.
Left: The Royal Pavilion and Garden was built for King George IV.
Right: The Lanes, part of which date back to the late 16th century, are a labyrinth made fun with quaint nooks to eat, drink and shop.
Photographs by Mark Parren Taylor
Brighton seafront: Smack bang in the middle of Brighton’s almost eight miles of coastline is the Victorian-era Palace Pier. Its diverse amusements include a two-penny arcade, a caravan offering tarot readings and a fairground with a helter-skelter. For a more sedate ride, head to the nearby Volk’s Electric Railway, a narrow-gauge train that trundles along the promenade towards the Marina.
Hotel du Vin: Housed in a handsome, gothic-style building that was once a wine merchant’s store, this 49-room hotel sits back from the seafront. Coastal shades bring a sense of serenity to the stylish bedrooms, while downstairs the clubbish bar and Parisian-style bistro buzz with life. The courtyard is sundowner-central during warmer months.
One Broad Street: There’s no receptionist or breakfast at this self-service Kemptown hotel — instead, each digitally locked room comes with a kitchenette. The industrial aesthetic is offset by cosy throws slung over super-comfy beds. Book a deluxe king, or the courtyard or loft suite if you’re travelling with family. These sleep four and come with a lounge area.
The Plotting Parlour: Dionysus, the Greek god of pleasure, is the muse for this inventive cocktail bar. As well as appearing on its bacchanalian wallpaper, they’re the inspiration behind drinks such as the boldly textured and coloured negroni sorbeto. Bag a table in the light-filled glass atrium or one of the restored cinema seats at the back.
The Basketmakers Arms: This pub started as a side-hustle for a local 19th-century weaver, and still serves as a hub for North Laine residents. A low-ceilinged old-school boozer, its walls are covered with vintage tobacco tins containing notes left by previous patrons. Pen your own haiku or love letter while sinking a pint from one of eight cask ales. Its menu features locally caught seafood and meat from Brighton butchers.
Era: Past masters at acquiring mid-century furniture, the owners of this two-floor corner store believe decorative antiques are the next big thing in interiors and are expanding their stock accordingly. The duo’s finds are all carefully refurbished and could include a pair of psychedelic side tables, an art deco club chair or a painted terracotta leopard.
Snoopers Paradise: Sherlock Holmes’ mind palace featured long corridors and endless memory-packed rooms — a fitting metaphor for this capacious flea market, where the detective serves as a logo. Shoppers enter the Brighton institution through a turnstile to explore 100 stalls laden with rare vinyl, vintage clothes, retro toys and endless other intriguing ephemera, all curated into themed areas.
Papersmiths: This little shop is a love-letter to the art of putting pen to paper, offering a rainbow of writing materials and a whimsical range of tote bags featuring slogans such as ‘Always Stationery Never Stationary’. Among the few UK outlets selling diaries by cult US brand Appointed, it also has its own range of brightly coloured notebooks.
Left: Gabriel Gutierrez, the king of Brighton’s Open Market, owns the family-run Taquitos Casazul, where he shares his deep passion for Mexican culture.
Right: English's, open since 1945, is Brighton's oldest seafood restaurant.
Photographs by Mark Parren Taylor
Taquitos Casazul: Great for a street food-style lunch, this place is run by genial Gabriel Gutierrez, the king of Brighton’s Open Market, a — somewhat ironically — covered marketplace off the city’s London Road. His short menu of Mexican dishes includes chicken tacos de mole — a 40-plus ingredient flavour-hit — as well as vegan versions. Pick up one of his nutty salsas to take home.
English’s: Brighton’s oldest seafood restaurant is still among its best, with period signage and muralled interior walls that evoke the Edwardian high life. Choose from oysters at the bar or one of its excellent-value set menus, featuring mackerel pate alongside classics such as lobster thermidor.
Furna: A booking at lauded local chef Dave Mothersill’s restaurant is as much an event as tickets to the Theatre Royal next door. Sit on a mustard bar stool at the countertop to watch a kitchen ballet unfold, with staff preparing an eight-course tasting menu of delicately beautiful and flavour-rich dishes like Orkney scallop, Yorkshire rhubarb and white asparagus. Its low-lit, parquet-floored dining room is made for lingering.
Getting there & around
Rail links to Brighton are operated by Southern, Thameslink and Gatwick Express, with direct services to destinations including London and Cambridge. The train station is very central and a straight 15-minute walk to the seafront.
Average journey time from London: 1h.
- Hit the beach. A trip to Brighton wouldn’t be complete without spending time on its famous beach. Pebbly rather than sandy, you can have a go at watersports such as stand-up paddleboarding and windsurfing or simply relax in the glorious sunshine.
- Feel the nostalgia at Brighton Pier. One of the bigger attractions on the seafront is Brighton Pier, a city landmark that dates back to the Victorian era.
- Marvel at the splendor of the Royal Pavilion. Brighton’s most iconic landmark is the extravagant Royal Pavilion, which was once the seaside palace of King George IV.
- Start your day with locally roasted coffee. Brighton is one of the UK’s most coffee-obsessed cities, and there is a wealth of independent coffee shops where you can get your caffeine fix from locally roasted beans.
Historic sealife center showcasing turtles, sharks, and interactive marine encounters like starfish touch pools and glass bottom boat rides, set in a charming building with an underwater tunnel. 11. Kemptown. This area is incredibly lively, full of great restaurants, hotels, B&B's, bars and pubs.
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Brighton. Pitch & Putt/Crazy Golf. Located on Maderia Drive, Jungle Rumble boasts 2 exciting 18-hole golf courses with enough obstacles to keep you and the whole family entertained for hours. Take on the Wild Caveman course and master plunging waterfalls or beat the jungle canopy of…. Price £5.00 to £36.00 Per Ticket.
