Fes el Bali
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Located to the northwest of the Atlas Mountains, it is surrounded by hills and the old city is centered around the Fez River ( Oued Fes) flowing from west to east. Fez has been called the " Mecca of the West" and the " Athens of Africa". It is also considered the spiritual and cultural capital of Morocco.
- Overview
- Tips from locals
Lose yourself in the Moroccan city’s maze-like medina and discover crafts, cafes and age-old mansions awash with colourful tiles.
This article was adapted from National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To step into the Fez medina is to enter one of the greatest medieval cities in the world. Its tangled network of lanes is home to extraordinary Islamic architecture — elaborate mosques, palaces and madrasas (theological schools) — but it’s the magic of the everyday that enchants most: artisans hammering patterns into brass, donkeys ferrying sacks of spices between the souks, the waft of fresh mint tea drifting from a doorway. It may seem like a vision from Arabian Nights, but this is no fantasy — Fez is a living, working city rather than one preserved largely for tourists, and it’s that character that makes it so bewitching.
Spend time getting lost in the labyrinth of the Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre, making new discoveries every time you set out — perhaps an elegant courtyard or a decrepit palace, its tiled floors and creaking colonnades awaiting renovation. First, order a fresh fruit smoothie and admire the views of the old city from the rooftop of Nagham Cafe, close to the Bab Bou Jeoud gate that leads into it.
Apart from the odd donkey, the medina is traffic-free and made for ambling. A fine starting point is the Tala'a Kebira, a long street winding through the old city. There are numerous sites of architectural interest along the way, marked by two medieval madrasas at either end: the Bou Inania Madrasa in the south west and Al-Attarine Madrasa in the north east. Both are fine introductions to Moroccan craftsmanship, with every surface decorated in intricate tiling, plasterwork and carved cedar wood.
It’s best not to be in too much of a hurry to get between those two points — hours can be lost meandering through this city. Stop to sample snails or fava bean soup from a street stall, but if you’re after something more substantial to eat, head up to the rooftop of Cafe Clock, near the southern end of Tala’a Kebira. There are some interesting local dishes on the menu, including camel burger, and the cafe also hosts cooking classes that include a tour of a local market to pick out ingredients — a good way to get a handle on Moroccan cuisine.
Kate Kvalvik and her husband Alaa Said restored an ancient former palace in the medina and now run it as the guesthouse Dar Seffarine.
Ain Nokbi
This district, just outside the medina, is home to a group of workshops specialising in clay tiles (zellige) and pottery. Moroccan zellige has an extensive colour palette and complex geometry. In the workshops, you can observe the whole tile-making process.
Nejjarine Museum
My favourite museum in Morocco is in an impressive building built in the early 19th century as an inn for visiting traders. Today, it houses a private collection of wooden arts and crafts from across the country. There’s also a peaceful rooftop cafe.
Guided tours
Fez at a glance. Fez has a special atmosphere. This 13th-century city is an imperial city of long-lasting multicultural history, that reserves unexpected surprises for its visitors. Cross the walls of the famous medina of Fez, recognized by UNESCO as an outstanding universal value.
- Medina. What is believed to be the largest pedestrian zone in the world is an indecipherable maze of more than 9,000 mostly nameless alleys. This is held by many as the greatest walled city in the Arab world, where the intertwining streets are so dark and narrow that you can’t even see them from the lookouts atop the valley.
- Bou Inania Madrasa. Founded in the middle of the 14th century by the Marinid ruler Abu Inan Faris, the Bou Inania Madrasa is a feast for the eyes, with every inch of the courtyard filled with exquisite craftsmanship.
- Bab Bou Jeloud. The elegant minaret of the Bou Inania Madrasa can be seen through the horseshoe arch of Fes el-Bali’s great western gateway. What may take you by surprise is how young this monument is compared to the religious schools and shrines in Fez.
- Al-Attarine Madrasa. This 14th-century madrasa by the spice and perfume market at Souk al-Attarine is a masterpiece of the Marinid Dynasty, commissioned by the Sultan Abu Sa’id Uthman II.
Apr 30, 2018 · Go inside the labyrinthine medina of Fez. This city has long been regarded as Morocco's cultural, spiritual, and intellectual heartland. By Amar Grover. April 30, 2018. • 5 min read. Set in...
- 2 min
- Amar Grover
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The urban fabric and the principal monuments in the medina – madrasas, fondouks, palaces, residences, mosques and fountains - date from this period. Although the political capital of Morocco was transferred to Rabat in 1912, Fez has retained its status as the country's cultural and spiritual centre.
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