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  1. Spread thin-set onto a small test area at the center of your layout. Put the first test tile onto the thin-set bed. Lay the tile flat and then with mild pressure, slide the tile 1/4-inch back against the thin-set ridges, then slide it back into place. Pull the tile up and check the back of the tile.

    • Tiling A Floor Overview
    • Dry Layout
    • Dry Layout, Part II
    • Spread Thinset Mortar
    • Set The Tile
    • Final Cuts
    • Notch The Tile
    • Fill The Tile Joints with Grout
    • Cleaning Up The Grout
    Strive for a layout that maximizes the number of whole tiles and the size of any cut tiles.
    When awkwardly sized tiles can’t be avoided, place them where vanities will cover them later or out of the main sight lines from the doorway.
    You shouldn’t step on any tiles until the thinset has cured for at least 24 hours.
    Save all of the cuts requiring a wetsaw for last. Then rent the wetsaw for one day.
    Find the midpoint of each wall and snap chalk lines on the floor. The line crossing at the room’s center are the starting point of the tile.
    Lay a row of tiles along a straightedge more than halfway across the room. For consistent joints, use tile spacers. This row determines the size of cut tiles along the walls.
    At the room’s center, place a tile where the chalk lines cross with its edges touching the lines. Measure from one wall (call it A) to the nearest tile edge. Now, go to the tile row and, starting a...
    From the center tile, measure to the opposite wall (call it B; mark this distance along the tile row. Adjust the center tile along the A-to-B line until measurements at walls A and B are the same.
    After adjusting the A-to-B line, mark the center tile where it touches the chalk line between the other walls (call them C and D). Align these marks with the C-to-D chalk line. Repeat the measuring...
    Lay a straightedge parallel to the C-to-D line and against one side of the center tile. Mark the straightedge where it meets a corner of the tile. This mark is your starting point for laying tile.
    Trim door casings with a flush-cut saw so tile can slip underneath. Cut with saw held flat against a tile on top of a piece of cardboard (to represent the thickness of the thinset).
    Chuck a mixer into a drill and blend the powdered thinset with latex additive—not water—until it’s the consistency of mayonnaise. Let it slake (rest) for about 10 minutes. Mix only as much thinset...
    With the flat edge of a trowel, spread a thin layer of thinset (scratch coat) over a 2-by-3-foot area next to the straightedge.
    Before the scratch coat dries, apply more thinset using the notched edge of the trowel. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to the floor and spread the thinset evenly in broad curved strokes, then...
    Gently lay a tile on thinset next to the straightedge. With fingertips widespread, push down with a slight twist of the wrist.
    Use this same technique to set each tile, making one row along the straightedge. Using tile spacers ensures even joints.
    Move the straightedge out of the way and lay the next row alongside the first, using the edge of the tile as your guide. Continue spreading thinset and setting tiles in 2-by-3-foot sections, workin...
    Make straight cuts as needed with a snap cutter. When waste is more than an inch wide, score tile with one firm stroke, then break by pushing down handle. Smooth cut edge with rubbing stone.
    For straight cuts with waste less than an inch wide, score tile on snap cutter, then snap pieces off with nibblers or use a wet saw.
    To fit a tile around an outside corner, hold one edge against the wall and mark the tile where it touches the corner. Pencil a line all the way across the tile. Then, without turning the tile, move...
    On a wet saw, cut the tile from the mark to the line, taking care not to go beyond the line. Then turn the tile and cut along the line next to the X, up to but not beyond the first cut. At end of c...
    For curved or scribed cuts, make parallel slices with the wet saw into the waste section, up to but not past the line marking the cut. Then break away the remaining “fingers” with nibblers.
    After tile sets overnight, use a margin trowel to scrape off any thinset from the tile surface or in the joints.
    Mix up a batch of grout to a looser-than-mayonnaise consistency. Add water a little at a time by squeezing it from a sponge.
    Scoop a trowelful of grout onto the floor and spread it with a rubber float held at a 45-degree angle to the floor. Push grout into the joints by first moving the float in line with the joints, the...
    Allow the grout to set up for 20 or 30 minutes. It should be firm to the touch before you begin washing the tile’s surface. Wipe away grout haze with a damp, well-squeezed sponge rinsed often in a...
    Again, wait for grout to haze over, then wipe with clean sponge. Repeat until the tile is clean.
  2. Nov 6, 2023 · Installing Floor Tile. Before you begin, make sure you have enough tile for the job. Measure your bathroom width and length, and multiply the measurements together to get your square footage. Add an additional 10% so you have extra in case of broken tile or mistakes. Use our Tile Flooring Calculator for a quick estimate.

    • Gather tools and materials. You will need: Your chosen tiles. Grout. Adhesive/ mortar. Protective floor covering. Small bucket. Large bucket. Clean sponge. Water. Sugar soap.
    • Check and prepare the floor surface. Take time to ensure your floor is even, ensuring that there are no bumps or cracks and that the surface is thoroughly cleaned, using a degreasing agent, such as sugar soap, if required.
    • Start in the right place. Be aware of your exits and access to your floor. We'd recommend starting in the center and working your way out towards the corners so that you won't have to tread on freshly laid floor tiles unnecessarily.
    • Prime the floor if required. So long as the surface you're tiling over is in good condition you should be able to tile onto it, even if you're tiling over an already tiled floor.
    • Choose the Right Tile. The first step in tiling a floor is to choose the right tile for your space. Consider factors such as durability, slip resistance, and style.
    • Purchase the Right Amount of Tile and Materials for Your Space. Purchase enough tile flooring to cover the entire project, accounting for any half pieces, scrap pieces and replacement tiles.
    • Plan the Layout. Don’t just start laying tiles against one wall: the wall may not be straight, and adjustments to allow for this will become exaggerated and unsightly as you progress across the room.
    • Prepare the Surface. Before installing the tile, you need to prepare the surface. Make sure the floor is clean and free of debris. If you are tiling over an existing floor, remove any loose tiles and fill in any cracks or holes.
  3. Position the first tile. Put enough adhesive on the floor to cover roughly one square metre, spreading it with the smooth side of the gauging trowel. Next, drag the serrated side through the adhesive, creating a ridged surface that makes better contact with the tiles. It also evenly spreads adhesive across the floor.

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  5. Place a fourth tile over the stacked tiles and slide so that the end butts up to the two vertical tiles. Using an erasable marker, draw a line at the end of the top tile on the tile underneath it. Remove all tiles and then cut the tile. To avoid confusion, lay out and mark tiles to be cut in small batches. 12.

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