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For census purposes, the New York City government classifies Central Harlem into two neighborhood tabulation areas: Central Harlem North and Central Harlem South, divided by 126th street. Based on data from the 2010 United States Census , the population of Central Harlem was 118,665, a change of 9,574 (8.1%) from the 109,091 counted in 2000 .
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Apr 17, 2024 · Harlem, district of New York City, U.S., occupying a large part of northern Manhattan.Harlem as a neighbourhood has no fixed boundaries; it may generally be said to lie between 155th Street on the north, the East and Harlem rivers on the east, 96th Street (east of Central Park) and 110th Street and Cathedral Parkway (north and west of Central Park) on the south, and Amsterdam Avenue on the west.
- The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica
- 429 W 127th St f2, New York, NY 10027, USA
- (212) 864-4500
- See a Show at the Apollo Theater. 253 W 125th St, New York, NY 10027, USA. Phone +1 212-531-5300. Web Visit website. Perhaps one of Harlem's most famous icons, the Apollo Theater offers a wide variety of programming, including family-friendly shows and their famous Amateur Night every Wednesday that first began in 1934.
- Treat Yourself at Levain Bakery. 2167 Frederick Douglass Blvd, New York, NY 10026, USA. Phone +1 917-464-3789. Web Visit website. Oprah made Levain famous for its sticky buns back in 2009, but the bakery’s massive, impossibly gooey chocolate-chip cookies have given it staying power—and supremely long lines.
- Attend a Service at Abyssinian Baptist Church. 132 W 138th St, New York, NY 10030, USA. Phone +1 212-862-7474. Web Visit website. The first African-American Baptist Church in New York state, Abyssinian began in downtown Manhattan in 1808.
- Eat Soul Food at Sylvia's. 328 Malcolm X Blvd, New York, NY 10027, USA. Phone +1 212-996-0660. Web Visit website. If you go to only one soul food joint in Harlem, make it Sylvia’s.
- Overview
- Changing Harlem
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Known for its civil rights history, soul food and thriving music scene, Harlem is attracting a new wave of travellers keen to appreciate the community and culture of New York’s most influential Black neighbourhood.
This article was adapted from National Geographic Traveller (UK).
“I started running errands here after school and on weekends in 1965,” reminisces Billy Mitchell, as he swings open the auditorium doors. “And before I knew it, I’m meeting all these wonderful people. The Temptations. The Supremes. James Brown and Marvin Gaye took a real liking to me — especially Mr Brown. He’d ask how my schoolwork was going.”
It’s a 30C morning in mid-June, but we’ve escaped the oppressive heat in the cool embrace of the Apollo Theater. Empty red seats cascade around us; lights illuminate the stage, set for tonight’s show. It’s a scene Billy, an Apollo veteran and ambassador of nearly 60 years, has seen many times. But as a rookie, I’m entranced by the storied space, and by Billy’s genuine charm; he’s met everyone in the music business and yet talks about it with the same kind of casual ease that I might discuss lunch plans. Though he is, after all, a local celebrity in his own right. He’s Mr Apollo.
“I’ve never called myself that you know,” Billy continues, “but the village of Harlem has chosen to call me that. I’m very grateful, of course. The theatre has always been a beacon of pride for this neighbourhood.”
Harlem, a 45-block stretch from Central Park to 155th Street — clipped by Fifth Avenue to the east and the Hudson River to the west — isn’t somewhere many first-time New York City visitors see. Or even second-time visitors. But of those who finally do put in the effort to come to this distinctive uptown pocket, most wonder what took them so long.
Just 20 minutes later, the park is a leafy memory and I feel the city pressing in. I’m down on sun-baked W125th Street, and despite the pulsating summer heat, the pavement is heaving. Street vendors hawk sunglasses and phone cases. Enticing aromas from street food stalls curl through the air. Ahead, cloaked in scaffolding, is the Victoria Theater — a sister project to the Apollo, under renovation to become an arts facility. It’s just one of many new cultural projects currently underway in Harlem; 2024 will also see the launch of the area’s reimagined Studio Museum, a celebration of Black artists.
That’s not all I see. As I push through the crowds to Malcolm X Boulevard, I pass adverts for glossy new condos and spot a branch of Whole Foods Market. Harlem property prices are skyrocketing, new people are moving in and — as is so often the case — locals are being squeezed out. Billy was measured in his comments about the change, noting that Harlem has always been diverse and that it was Dutch, Italian and Jewish before it was African American. But not everyone is as restrained. Passing a church a few blocks south, I pause to take in the words on the large letter board sign: Stop The Gentrifiers.
Gentrification in Harlem is a complicated, multifaceted issue. It’s tricky to pinpoint the biggest threat to the established local identity: as the area becomes more affluent, is the real concern Harlem’s changing class or its changing colour?
It’s a fact that Harlem’s getting whiter. But in turn, there’s also a growth in new-wave Black-owned businesses that celebrate Harlem’s unique identity, promoting its culture and keeping money in local pockets. Chic and millennial-friendly, these businesses are turning the area trendy. Ethiopian-Swedish celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson changed the landscape when he opened his Red Rooster restaurant here in 2010. He believes in the neighbourhood and its culture, and employs locals. His menu of soul food classics — cornbread, chicken and waffles, shrimp and grits — riffs off the staples served at more retro neighbourhood joints, like Sylvia’s, a few doors down.
Curled up in one of Red Rooster’s restaurant booths, I devour devilled eggs topped with ‘po’boy’ hummus, crisp pan-fried catfish with black-eyed peas, and, best of all, juicy fried chicken (‘yardbird’, in the restaurant’s lingo), drizzled in sticky honey.
Many smaller businesses shout loud and proud about their Harlem connections. I sink an afternoon pint at Manhattan’s first 100% African American-owned craft beer bar, Harlem Hops. At Sugar Hill Creamery, I try delicious honey and lavender ice cream — crafted by long-time locals Petrushka Bazin Larsen and Nick Larsen.
Harlem is awash with markets. Visit the daily Malcolm Shabazz Harlem Market, selling clothing, instruments and other wares sourced from across Africa. On Saturdays, there’s a farmers’ market in rambling Morningside Park. Or, on the second Thursday of the month (April to November), visit the Uptown Night Market, a trendy food event in West Harlem with more than 50 vendors.
Want to see jazz the way Harlem locals do? Besides established spots like Minton’s Playhouse and Bill’s Place, check out the roaming Jazzmobile, which puts on pop-up events throughout the area.
Aer Lingus, American Airlines, British Airways, Delta Air Lines, JetBlue and Virgin Atlantic fly direct to New York’s JFK from UK terminals including Edinburgh, Gatwick, Heathrow and Manchester.
Average flight time: 8h.
There’s no bad season to visit New York, but from late spring to early autumn you’ll see Harlem really come to life — its parks are lush and there’s plenty of al fresco dining and outdoor festivities (especially over Juneteenth, celebrated on 19 June). July and August can get very hot in the city, with temperatures averaging 26C, which can make exp...
Aloft Harlem. From £128, B&B.
The Harlem Flophouse. From £209 for two nights, room only.
NYC The Official Guide. nycgo.com
Harlem Shuffle by Colson Whitehead. RRP: £16.99
America As You Like It has seven nights at the Aloft Harlem, B&B, from £1,653 per person, including return flights.
Published in the October 2022 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK)
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Harlem, District occupying part of northern Manhattan Island, New York City, U.S. It lies north of Central Park, with its business district centred on 125th Street. Founded by Peter Stuyvesant in 1658 as Nieuw Haarlem, it was named after Haarlem in the Netherlands. During the American Revolution it was the site of the Battle of Harlem Heights ...
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3. El Museo del Barrio, the best museum in Harlem, New York. Harlem is also home to one of the top museums in NYC. El Museo del Barrio is one of the most significant Latino cultural institutions in New York, with thousands of items chronicling 800+ years of Caribbean and Latin American history. 3.
Sylvia’s Restaurant (black-owned) is perhaps the most iconic soul food restaurant in New York City, if not the world, operating since 1962. That said, it’s definitely the most touristy restaurant in Harlem, so be prepared for crowds. They do a gospel brunch on Sundays. Amy Ruth’s (black-owned) is another popular soul food restaurant in ...
